Emilio Moro, Ribera del Duero (Spain) “Malleous” 2011

($45, Moro Brothers): Moro’s 2011 Ribera del Duero is impressive because of its suaveness despite its size.  Focusing more on mineraly or savory flavors than fruity ones, it has an attractive firmness without being hard.  Some might complain about the amount of oak flavors showing at this stage, but they convey an alluring creaminess.  It would be a good choice either for the cellar, or if you don’t mind a touch of oak, with a standing rib roast this winter.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 17, 2015