Col d’Orcia, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio al Vento 2006

($120, Palm Bay International): It should come as no surprise that this is an outstanding wine.  The producer is one of Montalcino’s best, the vineyard’s location is ideal with perfect elevation and exposure, and the vintage is outstanding.  At almost a decade of age, the wine is just starting to show its grandeur.  Tightly wound, tannic, and still firm — but importantly, not hard — it is a beautifully balanced wine.  Its dark mineraly flavors appear slowly and persistent.  An alluring tarriness and dark cherry skin-like bitterness adds even more character.  This is a wine to study and contemplate as it unfolds.  The 1990 Poggio al Vento, served in double magnum with dinner recently, was still fresh and lively, truly monumental.  I suspect the 2006 will follow in its footsteps.  But be prepared to cellar it for another decade.
97 Michael Apstein Jun 9, 2015