Château Saint-Maur, Côtes du Provence (France) Clos de Capelune 2014

($60): It’s not the blend that explains the quality and uniqueness of the Clos de Capelune rosé from Château Saint-Maur, since it has a similar varietal make-up to the “L’Excellence” bottling — both are a blend of mostly red grapes (Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvèdre) with a touch of Rolle. Rather, the explanation lies in the fact that, for the Clos de Capelune, the grapes come from a 30-acre plot located at a higher elevation — 1,600 feet. It must be the location that explains the wine’s finesse. Yes, it’s broader and longer, but not really more powerful. The wine’s texture is what is really captivating. As good as Château Saint-Maur’s two other bottlings are, the Clos de Capelune just has more stature and refinement. 93 Michael Apstein May 5, 2015