Xavier Monnot, Volnay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Chenes 2012

($85, Robert Katcher Selections): One whiff of this wine explains the reputation of Volnay and why the wines from this village are in such great demand.  Most experts consider Clos des Chenes one of the best premier cru vineyards in this village that lacks any grand crus.  With its explosive floral qualities, Monnot’s 2012 is a quintessential example of top-notch Volnay.  Its enormous impact on the palate — fresh red fruits with a dash of savory notes — is all the more impressive because of the wine’s delicacy and laciness.  I suspect it will be even more alluring in five years as more savory notes evolve, adding to its complexity.  To be fair, if you can afford it, you won’t be disappointed if you uncork it tonight.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 28, 2015