($25): Paolo de Marchi, who, along with his family, owns Isole e Olena, and is responsible for the wines, is a thoughtful, ever-questioning man who makes exceptional wines.   Rare, perhaps unique, in the region, he makes no Chianti Classico Riserva — only this one and his Super Tuscan, Cepparello, which is made entirely from Sangiovese and which is truly super.  He feels he would need to compromise the quality of his Chianti Classico and his Cepparello if he were to siphon grapes for a Riserva.   This philosophy helps explain why the Isole e Olena Chianti Classico is such an exceptional wine year in and year out.  Beautifully floral, Isole e Olena’s 2012 Chianti Classico is the classic example of understated power and elegance.  Deep black cherry-like nuances impart an attractive weight without heaviness and the signature Tuscan acidity keeps it fresh and lively.  Its appeal becomes even more apparent as it sits in the glass and blossoms.  Easy to savor now, especially with decanting, it will only be more enjoyable with another few years of bottle age.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 3, 2015