Drappier, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs NV

($51, Dreyfus Ashby): Few houses make a non-vintage blanc de blancs because Chardonnay, the only grape allowed for that moniker, is not widely planted in Champagne and most producers need it to balance their blends.  Fortunately, Drappier does.  Creamy with a firm backbone, it delivers a paradoxical combination of richness and austerity that’s hard to explain.  Lovely as a stand-alone aperitif because of its length, its edginess makes it a brilliant choice to accompany sautéed shrimp, scallops or similarly rich seafood.
92 Michael Apstein Mar 3, 2015