Caiarossa, IGP Maremma (Tuscany, Italy) 2010

($85): The 2010 Caiarossa, an extraordinary wine and the best from this estate since its commercial debut with the 2004 vintage, shows how far this producer has come in a very short time. Owned by same Dutch family who own the Margaux classified growths Château Giscours and Château du Tertre, and whose general manager, Alexander Van Beek, runs those two Bordeaux properties, Caiarossa uses a seeming mishmash of grapes — Bordeaux varieties, Syrah and even Alicante — to make this impressive Super Tuscan.  The 2010 has everything — fruit, spice, smoky herbal qualities — without having too much of anything.  The tannins in this beautifully proportioned wine are velvety — hey, they know Margaux — and lend sophistication.  Bright Tuscan acidity refreshes the palate and keeps you coming back for more.  For those of you who can spend $85, consider it a bargain.
95 Michael Apstein Mar 3, 2015