($25): Domaine de la Citadelle, one of the top producers in the Luberon and a name to remember, makes a range of wines.  This wine, labeled Gouverneur Saint-Auban, is their top white (They also make a stunning red under the same moniker).  A blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, and Grenache Blanc, it is fermented in older oak barrels, which adds complexity — but not oaky or woody flavors.  Alexis Rousset-Rouard, who runs this family domaine, sums it up, “The oak brings more to it than it takes away.”  Subtle stone fruit flavors lend intrigue while energetic acidity prevents the heaviness that can plague white wines from the Rhône.  Try it with a roast chicken this winter.
90 Michael Apstein Dec 30, 2014