Pascal Doquet, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru 2002

($90, Robert Katcher Selections): Blanc de Blancs Champagne is rare, comprising only about five percent of all Champagne, and expensive since Chardonnay is planted only in the best sites — on the chalky soils of the small (8,000 acres) of the Côte des Blancs.  The Grand Cru moniker means the grapes for this wine came from only the best villages in the Côte des Blancs.  The 2002 vintage was a great one for Champagne and it’s rare to see one from that year still available on the retail market.  Pascal Doquet’s conveys the impressive combination of intensity and finesse.  A subtle creaminess, characteristic of Blanc de Blancs, adds to its suave texture.  A firm spine balances the intensity without being aggressive.  A persistent and fine, laser-like finish reinforces its grandeur.
95 Michael Apstein Dec 23, 2014