($30, Kermit Lynch): Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, a unique fortified sweet wine, has long been held in high regard, having received appellation status in 1945 and elevated to a cru, comparable to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in 2005.  Domaine de Durban, one of the appellation’s top producers, makes a consistently glorious traditionally styled wine.  Honeyed, but amazingly not heavy, it finishes with uplifting acidity that imparts an invigorating vibrancy.  Its complexity appears gradually, with time in the glass, and makes you want to savor the wine slowly.  It’s a natural to pair with a cheese course or serve as dessert.  I avoid serving it, or any sweet wine, with desert because the sweetness of the two can clash.  It’s available in half-bottles as well, one of which will serve four people easily.
93 Michael Apstein Dec 9, 2014