Kumeu River, Aukland (New Zealand) Chardonnay ‘Village’ 2011

($20, Wilson Daniels): I’ve not tasted all the Chardonnays from New Zealand, so I can’t say that Kumeu River is that country’s top producer of that varietal.  But I can say that I haven’t found a better one from that country yet.  Indeed, at the price, this one ranks as one of the best $20 Chardonnays from anywhere in the world.  Kumeu River has a Burgundian approach–stylistically and philosophically–to its Chardonnays.  This one comes from a variety of vineyards within the Kumeu subregion of Auckland and would be considered in Burgundy, a “village” wine, in contrast to their single-vineyard bottlings, which are more akin to Premier and Grand Cru in stature.  Suave and rich, it is the epitome of balance–not too much of anything, and just enough of everything.  It’s a fabulous buy. 90 Michael Apstein Jun 10, 2014