Stéphane Aviron, Beaujolais Villages (Burgundy, France) 2012

($15, Frederick Wildman & Sons): The yields in Beaujolais in 2012, were, like everywhere else in Burgundy, down dramatically.  Stéphane estimates that the average yield in 2012 for Beaujolais in general was about 27 hl/ha, or half normal, which is both good and bad.  Good, because the wines are wonderfully concentrated.  Bad, because there’s less of them and they are more difficult to find.  His Beaujolais-Villages is lively with good concentration and fruitiness, without being candied or sweet.  In contrast to much of the Beaujolais on today’s market, Aviron’s is real wine.  This easy to drink mid-weight red is perfect for roast chicken tonight.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 18, 2014