d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz / Viognier “The Laughing Magpie” 2009

($29, Old Bridge Cellars): By blending a touch of Viognier with the Shiraz, as in the custom in France’s Côte Rôtie, d’Arenberg has created a more layered wine compared to their super-value The Stump Jump.   Both flowery and gamey, it is balanced, not bombastic.  A wonderful lifted quality prevents it from being ponderous.  Subtle peppery notes stud its appealing texture.  If The Stump Jump is wool, this one is a very fine lambswool.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 8, 2013