Moulin Touchais, Coteaux-du-Layon (Loire Valley, France) 1985

($65, Polaner): You read the vintage correctly.  The Touchais family, which has owned vineyards in the Coteaux-du-Layon appellation since the 18th century, produces sweet wines from extremely ripe Chenin Blanc grapes that concentrate their sugars by drying on the vines (as opposed to being affected by Botrytis).  After fermentation, they cellar the wines for at least a decade before releasing them. The 1985 Moulin Touchais has developed an extraordinary mixture of nutty and apricot-like flavors without being cloying.  Vibrant acidity keeps it fresh and lively. It would be a superb choice to serve with a cheese course or by itself as dessert.
94 Michael Apstein Mar 5, 2013