($42, Kermit Lynch): The second wine of the famed Vieux Télégraphe, Télégramme is made from what the Brunier family calls their “young” Grenache vines, 20 to 25 years old! The 2009 vintage produced rich ripe wines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the ‘09 Télégramme fits that mold. With more primary fruit and less complexity that the 2009 Vieux Télégraphe, it is nonetheless extremely satisfying for its vivacious bright fruit intertwined with spice. Easy to drink now because of suave tannins, it’s a good choice for hearty winter fare.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2013