Louis Métaireau, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) “Carte Noire” 2010

($16, Martine Wines):  Métaireau is one of Muscadet’s best and most consistent producers.  And this wine reflects his considerable talents.  With an unusual ripeness for Muscadet, it still delivers a bracing Granny Smith apple-like vibrancy typical of the appellation.  Mineraly and long, it shows that Muscadet can produce wines with considerable complexity.  It’s a great choice for grilled fish, sushi, or shellfish.  And what a bargain! 90 Michael Apstein Nov 6, 2012