($15, Vineyard Brands):  Also known at “Black Label,” this is Château de la Ragotière’s top Muscadet, made from 50 year old vines.  Yes, it’s bracing as Muscadet should be.  But it has a lovely texture and depth–it must be the old vines speaking–that is lacking in most Muscadet.  It’s a winning combination to cut through the heat and humidity of summer. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2012