($30, Kermit Lynch):  Bandol, a small appellation bordering the Mediterranean, is well known for its sturdy Mourvedre-based red wines.  But growers also make a tiny amount of white wine from the usual Mediterranean varieties, Bourboulenc, Clairette, and Ugni Blanc, as well as Sauvignon Blanc.  This one, a classy blend of Clairette and Ugni Blanc, delivers subtle peach flavors floating atop a mouth-coating lanolin-like texture.  Unlike many southern French whites, it’s fresh and lively.  The combination–richness and vibrancy–makes it a good choice for well-seasoned seafood. 91 Michael Apstein May 22, 2012