Cave de Tain, St. Joseph Rouge (Rhône Valley, France) “Esprit de Granite” 2009

($22, Cognac One):  The appellation of St. Joseph lies on the right (West) bank of the Rhône, facing east and its more famous neighbor, Hermitage.  Though the granite soil is similar to that of Hermitage and the grape (Syrah) is the same, the wines are lighter and earlier maturing because the east-facing exposure means less sunlight–and ripeness–during the harvest season.  True to form, this one from, the well-respected local coop, is enjoyable now, delivering abundant black fruit flavors intertwined with peppery notes.  It’s a burly wine, nicely suited for hearty fare or a grilled flank steak. 88 Michael Apstein Apr 17, 2012