($100, Frederick Wildman):  Here’s an example of how the French appellation system breaks down.  This village wine delivers more elegance and complexity than many producers’ wines from premier cru vineyards.  For this wine, Burguet combines grapes from old vines located in various parcels that lie on the slope between the village and the road.  Both the slope location and the old vines contribute to the wine’s extraordinary complexity.  It delivers a seamless combination of ripe fruit and savory nuances without bearing heavy or overbearing. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 3, 2012