Couly-Dutheil, Chinon Blanc (Loire Valley, France) “Les Chanteaux” 2009

($25, Cynthia Hurley):  White wine from Chinon is rare because the soil and climate is far more conducive to Cabernet Franc than to Chenin Blanc.  But it’s worth the search for this wine, not because of its rarity, but because of its unique character.  Made from Chenin Blanc by one of the Chinon’s top producers, it has an ever so slightly waxy or lanolin-like texture coupled with a honey-like richness.  But surprisingly, it’s devoid of sweetness.  Cutting acidity keeps it clean and bright.   The almost paradoxical interplay of crispness and richness makes you want to take another sip.  A versatile wine, it goes well with a wide range of dishes, from pan-seared scallops to roast chicken. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 19, 2011