($15, Vineyard Brands):  Muscadet, especially from the Sèvre-et-Maine subregion, remains an under appreciated source of bright and zesty unoaked wines.   This one, from one of the area’s leading producers, comes from 50-year old vines, which helps explain its fascinating complexity.  Mineraly, flinty even, it has uncommon (for Muscadet) depth and length.  It would be perfect when summertime dinner calls for a large pot of steamed clams or mussels.  You’d be hard pressed to find more enjoyment in a 15-dollar wine. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 19, 2011