Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Hunting Hill” 2007

($45, Wilson Daniels):  Kumeu River is located on New Zealand’s North Island well north (which means warmer in the Southern Hemisphere) of Marlborough or Central Otago, two of the countries more well-known sites for top-notch wine on the South Island.  Nonetheless, its proximity to the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean (no more than 15 miles) means it’s a cool site.  The Hunting Hill Chardonnay reflects that coolness with its piercing precision and vivacious acidity.  Despite barrel fermentation and aging, it’s still more mineral than fruity or oaky and will appeal to those who prefer tautness rather than fatness in their Chardonnays. 92 Michael Apstein Jun 28, 2011