Château La Nerthe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2007

($48, Pasternak Wine Imports):  Christian Voeux, La Nerthe’s winemaker, describes 2007 as “a fantastic vintage,” because, as he puts it, “there was rain and wind just at the right time.”  The 2007 La Nerthe certainly has all the traits of coming from a great vintage.  It also benefits from Voeux’s decision not to make their super-duper wine, Cuvée des Cadettes, that year. It’s remarkably fresh and vibrant despite the ripe (14.2% alcohol) briary black fruit flavors.  The supple tannins envelop layers of spice and herbal notes.  It’s definitely a robust wine, but with engaging elegance and terrific length. 92 Michael Apstein May 3, 2011