Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2009

($17, Vineyard Brands): Bright and stony, this invigorating Chardonnay offers far more complexity and sophistication than most at this price.  An alluring flinty–almost smoky–quality is reminiscent of Chablis.  Consumers looking for more richness and a fatter style of Chardonnay will be disappointed.  But those wanting a zesty, racy style will embrace it, especially at the price.  90 Michael Apstein Nov 30, 2010