Château d’Esclans, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) Rosé “Whispering Angel” 2009

($21, Shaw Ross):  Sacha Lichine, son of renowned Alexis Lichine, the larger than life wine-merchant, author and Bordeaux château owner, has forsaken the family’s traditional home base (Bordeaux) for sunny Provence where he aims to make the best rosé in the world at Château d’Esclans.  The Whispering Angel, a remarkably sophisticated “entry” level wine, is a blend of mostly Grenache and Rolle, with small amounts of Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvedre.  Fermentation is performed entirely in stainless steel vats to preserve the inherent red fruit flavors of the grapes.  He performs a temperature-controlled bâtonage (stirring of the lees), which helps impart an unusual–and welcome–intensity while preserving freshness.  Persistent, yet delicate, wild strawberry and other red fruit-like flavors harmonize with a zippy freshness.  Most amazingly, the wine holds its own even after tasting his more expensive rosés. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 14, 2010