($43, Vineyard Brands): Made from Sauvignon Blanc vines that are more than 50 years old, this is a great Sancerre, with complexity that comes only from old vines. Fermented and aged in older oak barrels, you feel–not taste–the wood’s effect.  This is not just Sauvignon Blanc; this is Sauvignon Blanc planted in Sancerre with the slightly chalky and earthy flavors unique to that locale.  Long and broad, it conveys a captivating smoky flintiness balanced by lively acidity.  Each sip brings new flavors.  Yes, it’s pricier than most Sancerre, but you get what you pay for. 93 Michael Apstein Dec 29, 2009