Taltarni, Pyrenees of Victoria (Victoria, Australia) “Cephas” 2003

($40, Clos du Val Wine Co.): A blend of Shiraz (81%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, Cephas is the flagship wine of Taltarni, Bernard Portet and Clos du Val’s outpost in Australia.  This bold red–with slightly smoky with gamey undertones–still maintains the hallmark elegance of Clos du Val’s style.  Despite its power, it is not flamboyant or over-the-top.  Supporting tannins add structure but their polished texture allows for current enjoyment.  Undoubtedly its bottle age contributes to its wonderful complexity, which is apparent in the nose and on the palate as the wine evolves in the glass.  It’s stylish and big–two words not often used in the same sentence when referring to Australian wine–and a worthy flagship. 95 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2009