Meerlust, Stellenbosch (South Africa) “Rubicon” 2005

($28, Maisons Marques and Domaines): As good as Meerlust’s other wines are–and they are quite good–this one, their flagship, is delectable.  The blend of the Bordeaux-style wine varies from vintage to vintage.  The 2005 is roughly 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder split equally between Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Plumper than their very good Merlot (previously reviewed), it retains a firm spine for support.  It strikes a balance between the New World and the Old, with the rich, lush fruit of the former balanced by the structure of the latter.  Smoky, savory qualities appear with time in the glass and complement the plum and black cherry notes.  The tannins and oak are well integrated, which allows for current enjoyment, but the overall balance and structure suggests it will evolve beautifully over the next decade. 93 Michael Apstein Jul 7, 2009