($94, The Sorting Table): You have to search the bottle to know this wine is from Châteauneuf-du-Pape because that information is hidden on the back label.  The front label–pure white–has just the word Pure on it.  Fortunately, the contents of the bottle upstage the edgy labeling.  Fabulously complex and balanced, its exotic flavors of dark cherries and a haunting gaminess are actually enhanced by an ever-so-subtle bitterness.  It has a savory, meaty character that gives you–dare I say–’pure’ joy. 93 Michael Apstein May 26, 2009