Howard Park, Western Australia (Australia) Chardonnay 2006

($30, Bluewater Wine Company): Wines from Western Australia, including their Chardonnays, do not fit the conventional mold for Australian wines.  The Chardonnays in general, like this one, are leaner–yet still flavor packed–and racier compared to their South Australian counterparts.  Howard Park, one of Western Australia’s top producers, has fashioned this wine with an almost Riesling-like vibrancy that complements the green appley flavors. There’s an alluring hint of minerality and creaminess that appears with each sip.   Long and focused, this Chardonnay has a Burgundian-like sensibility and finesse. 92 Michael Apstein May 12, 2009