Clos Rougeard, Saumur-Champigny (Loire Valley, France) Les Poyeux 2004

($81, Louis Dressner Selections): This superb wine will quash any doubts that Cabernet Franc is a noble and great grape.  Although there is no official classification of Saumur-Champigny vineyards, Les Poyeux, a single vineyard, is considered one of the area’s best.  The wine has a Pinot Noir kind of sensibility–that is flavor without weight.  The gloriously complex nose is followed by equally multidimensional flavors of subtle ripe red fruits and herbal elements.  Each sip bombards the palate with new flavors.  Long and suave, it’s a revelation because red wines from the Loire rarely achieve this kind of grandeur. Its quality is exceeded only by its stablemate, Clos Rougeard’s 2004 Le Bourd (previously reviewed). 95 Michael Apstein Mar 17, 2009