Renwood, Amador County (California) Zinfandel “Grandpère” 2004

($40): Grandpère is the name of the vineyard, which according to Renwood has the oldest clone of Zinfandel in California.  The age of the vines (130 years) certainly explains the uncommon complexity and subtlety–for Zinfandel–found in the wine.   The heat in the finish of this robust–15.5% stated alcohol–Zinfandel sadly detracts from the otherwise lovely layers of ripe fruit, spice and even tobacco-like nuances. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 18, 2008