Charles Joguet, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “Les Petites Roches” 2006

($25, Kermit Lynch): Despite its popularity in France, Chinon is an often-overlooked area by US consumers.  True, the Cabernet Franc grape, the mainstay of the reds (since 2001 up to 25% Cabernet Sauvignon can be included) can produce vegetal wine if not ripened properly.  Ripening was not a problem for Joguet, one of the area’s leading producers, in 2006.  His ‘Les Petites Roches’ Cuvée has ripe fruit flavors, but even more appealing is the healthy dose of minerality, which he attributes to the limestone and gravelly soil.  With its lovely complexity and accessibility, it would be a fine choice for Thanksgiving. 89 Michael Apstein Nov 11, 2008