Domaine Catherine le Goeuil, Cairanne (Rhône Valley, France) “Cuvée Lea Felsch” 2006

($23, Kermit Lynch): This cuvée, the only one the producer makes, honors the current owner’s grandmother.  She would be pleased.  Made from a typical Mediterranean blend–mostly (55%) Grenache, with Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault comprising the remainder–it is a charmingly robust wine.  Layers of black fruit flavors, spice, and herbal nuances are supported by moderate tannins.  It packs plenty of power without being overdone.  This well-balanced wine is lovely now for hearty fall fare, but will smooth out even more over the next several years, so there’s no rush. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2008