The Lane Vineyard, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Viognier 2006

($30, Vintage New World): Viognier is a tough grape to vinify.  Often the wine can be heavy and blowsy or alcoholic because the grapes need to be very ripe to transmit the requisite aroma and flavor to the wine.  John Edwards, owner of The Lane Vineyard, has done a fabulous job with his 2006.  Nuances of peach identify the varietal without overwhelming the palate.  A lovely texture fills the mouth and bright acid keeps it lively.  You’d never guess it has 14% alcohol and shows that you can’t judge wines solely by their alcohol level. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2008