Columbia Winery, Yakima Valley (Washington) Chardonnay Wyckoff Vineyard 2004

($20): Despite being barrel fermented and undergoing malolactic fermentation, this Chardonnay is not in-your-face, but rather has a beautiful balance of fruit and oak.  Bright vibrant acidity keeps it lively.  A relatively low–at least these days–13.5% alcohol helps explain its character and appeal. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2008