($23, Wildman): Jaboulet, one the Rhône’s most reliable and top producers, makes two wines, this one and one labeled Thalabert, from Crozes-Hermitage, the flatter land surrounding the more prestigious Hermitage appellation.  Les Jalets has a smoothness and elegance surrounding its characteristic peppery spicy core.  An excellent value, it is perfect for drinking now. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 30, 2007