Domaine Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses (Burgundy, France) Les Boutonnières 2005

($27, Domaines et Saveurs Collection): A potential drawback to some white Burgundies from 2005 is a lack of uplifting acidity.  That’s not a problem with this wine because the village of Auxey-Duresses lies in a cool microclimate that prevented the warmth of 2005, responsible for the great concentration and intensity, from sapping this wine’s acidity.  Steely, lively and nicely balanced, there is intriguing earthiness in the finish, putting this village–Les Boutonnières is not a premier cru–wine on a par with many producers’ premier crus. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007