($60, Foster’s Wine Estates): Wynns’ best Cabernet, the John Riddoch bottling is made entirely from fruit grown on their vineyards in the heart of Coonawarra.  It’s a barrel selection of their best Cabernet, according to Sue Hodder, Wynns’ senior winemaker.  She’s not looking for the biggest style wine when she selects barrels, and will eliminate those with hard tannins because she is looking for parcels that will make an elegant, polished kind of wine.  She has succeeded admirably in 2004.  Herbs, chocolate, and black cherries are all mixed together in the nose and on the palate.  For all its intensity, it has extraordinary balance and length.  Tannins are fine and firm, not astringent.   It gets my highest accolade, WB, which stands for ‘would buy.’ 96 Michael Apstein May 1, 2007