Wynns, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

($18, Foster’s Wine Estates): Frequently known simply as Wynns’ Black Label in Australia, this is consistently one of that country’s great Cabernets.  It’s track record for aging is matched only by a few of Penfolds’ legendary wines–Grange, St. Henri and  Bin 707–though all of those ring up at considerably higher prices.  The aromas of this wine scream Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon with an alluring mixture of herbs, subtle mint and earthiness.  Hints of chocolate and cassis emerge from this balanced wine.  Unlike many Australian Cabernets that wow you with power, this grabs your attention with its finesse and length.  Delightful to drink now, it will age for decades.  So, if you’re tired of paying big bucks for Cabernet, stock up. 92 Michael Apstein May 1, 2007