Emiliana, Central Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Natura” 2005

($10, Banfi Imports): Emiliana, an affiliate of Concha y Toro, one of Chile’s best wineries, is making a name for itself with wines made from organically grown grapes bottled under the Natura label.  With over 3,500 acres in several of Chile’s prime grape growing regions — Maipo Valley, Casablanca and Colchagua — they must be one of the largest, if not the largest, growers of organic grapes in the world.  Whether wine made from organic grapes is inherently better than that made from traditionally grown fruit is still open to debate, but I suspect that, everything else being equal, they are.  This remarkable Cabernet supports my suspicion.  Supple and full-flavored, but not overdone, it has more sophistication than most wines at this price.  Fine tannins and bright acid lend support and keep it lively throughout a meal.  A marvelous value! 88 Michael Apstein Mar 13, 2007