Hill of Content, Clare Valley / McLaren Vale (South Australia) Grenache Shiraz 2003

($14, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Despite being the minority of the blend — 20 percent — the weight of black fruit from Shiraz barrels through in this riper, more overt wine.  There’s smokiness along with a taste of succulent sour cherries.  It has remarkable power, but it’s not particularly heavy.  Fine tannins make it easy to enjoy now. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 6, 2007