Fire Block, Watervale (Clare Valley, South Australia) Grenache “Old Vine” 2003

($19, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): It’s rare for a young wine to deliver mature flavors, but this 100% Grenache, aged in old oak barrels, does.  It has an alluring combination of bright raspberries — characteristic of Clare Valley Grenache I’m told — spice and hints of caramel, which I usually associated with older, developed wines. Its balance belies the 15% alcohol.  It’s a good value for current drinking. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 6, 2007