Pol Roger, Champagne (France) 1998

($70, Wildman): Fuller and more forward than the 1996 Pol Roger–which still could use a few more years of bottle age–the 1998 is very appealing now.  It’s suave and charming despite its considerable power derived in part, no doubt, from the predominance of Pinot Noir in the blend. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 6, 2007