Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2004

($22, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): This stylish wine, from a village just north of Beaune, delivers quintessential Burgundian character at a reasonable-for Burgundy-price. Remarkably long, with the hint of earthiness that screams ‘Burgundy,’ it reminds us that good producers, such as Drouhin, make satisfying wines even in what the French call, ‘difficult years.’ 88 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2006