($27, Patrick LeSec /Chemin des Vins): The Southern Rhone handled the heat of 2003 much better than most areas of France and, as a result, turned out some fabulous wines. This is one of them. Meaty and full-blown, it retains remarkable succulence and balance. Lovely now for robust fall fare, it should develop nicely over the next decade. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 12, 2006