($14, Houghton Wines): Houghton uses an alluring blend of two-thirds Chardonnay and one-third Verdelho to capture the virtues of each variety. The Verdelho adds an intriguing floral character while the Chardonnay provides stuffing–but, in the Western Australian tradition–without heaviness. A tangy finish keeps the wine interesting throughout a meal. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 8, 2006