Hay Shed Hill, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Etched Label” 2003

($55, Artemis Wines International): This is a resounding success for the first vintage of what is sure to be this producer’s flagship wine. The quality and complexity comes from 35-year old vines, low yields (two to three tons per acre), and the talent of winemaker Nigel Kinsman. The small amount of Cabernet Franc amplifies the usual Margaret River herbal character without overwhelming the ripe, lush fruit profile. It’s a big wine with fine tannins, but its balance is excellent, as it carries14.5% alcohol effortlessly. Sadly, production was limited to two barrels–50 cases–but the wine is worth a search. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006