Craggy Range Winery, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Le Sol” 2002

($60, Kobrand): Craggy Range Winery, an outstanding producer specializing in wines from single vineyards, has entered the upscale Syrah sweepstakes with their Le Sol offering. Their philosophy is that unique wines arise from unique growing conditions; hence their single vineyard focus. Usually I shudder at 15+ percent alcohol wines, but this bold, succulent Syrah carries it well. The super rich, plumy fruit and prominent extract make it a good choice for a roasted rack of lamb this winter. I am leery of how high alcohol wines develop, but this is so yummy now, I wouldn’t worry because few will have the willpower not to drink it now. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2006